BLOOMINGTON , by far the liveliest small city in Indiana, is 45 miles southwest of Indianapolis on Hwy-37. It owes its vibrancy to the main campus of Indiana University, east of downtown. The I.M. Pei-designed Indiana University Art Museum on East Seventh Street (Wed-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm; free) holds a fine international collection of painting and sculpture. Across the street from the pastoral campus, law student Hoagy Carmichael composed Stardust on the piano of a popular hangout. The architecturally rich downtown also features a host of good shops.